Body repair, paint-less tool build

Because stuff happens and your really killer car becomes the victim of careless shop cleaning and organization it becomes necessary to learn paint-less dent removal. Like most tasks a little research is required and then acquiring the special tools. This is referred to whale tail. These are a little spendy, around 70 bucks so we are going to make one our-self and also several different mods to it.

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Better do your maintenance

I have been posting about my mountain bike adventures on my forumla website. The rides to the Florida Keys, my daily local beach rides and lately my street terrorist trips to the gym. I use terrorist not with the intent of drawing looks from the NSA or FBI, (hey Guys) but to explain the attitude of the ride. It’s extreme sports, My bike is a Bosch Pedal assist and this system gives some real expanded ability to moving in and out.
This being a Fixit post lets get to the point. While doing hard riding equipment is stressed to the max and coupled with a battery assisted pedal system parts are under maximum stress. An of course being a heavy rider adds to it. Not heavy as in couch potato but as in large muscular frame.

Just to add a rant I’m not talking about half a fag spandex wearing street riding groupie or the other spectrum where people who couldn’t ride a bike to begin with purchase battery driven with monster wheels that are propelled without peddling at 20 MPH gonna get their asses in the hospital idiots!

So it’s a mountain bike with a larger frame and a gearing system that assists when peddling. No peddle no forward movement. If your experienced in mechanical or electro mechanical systems you know Bosch makes some high quality stuff. But the other systems are basically standard.
The chain and gears, the pedals and wheels. When your adding the power to the crank it put some extreme additional stress in the drive line. Bolts have to be tight, wheels have to be aligned, tires have to be properly inflated. Regular maintenance is a must! If something comes loose while your blasting down the road on any battery driven bike your ass in going to hit the ground with some force and if your a beginner, including lack of exercise weak bodies you will be done if not dead.

If you want an example of concern the Fla DMV sends out a flyer with registration updates that are telling people to give 3 feet and 20 feet distance. That right there should tell you people are getting hurt or dead. Add alcohol to the mix and you better up your liability insurance cause the treatment will be expensive.

Yes maintenance. I have come to the conclusion with my bike that I only need one speed. I never take it out of 8th gear, if i get into a tough spot like starting from a stop going up a hill i just select turbo on the control, that being said i am exploring a belt system, removing the chain completely. I mention this because when your on battery assist and cranking on the pedels there is a max strain being transmitted through the drive, yes the battery system has some power, breaking a chain a sure possibility.

My daily maintenance program was usually washing and lubing, this was daily because I ride on the beach for my stress relief and unbelievable scenic exposure. But it’s salt and sand. If your a keep my chain lubed owner you quickly realize sand loves lube and sand destroys chains and gears.
Getting a system for a maintenance and adjustment process is “mandatory” . My experience as a professional aviation engineer has taught me about regular time based adjustment and replacement. This is how aircraft stay safe and this can be applied to electric bikes. Unlike the old version bike in the garage that only needed tires inflated, electric bikes are motor driven and will require inspecting and replacing parts, these schedules should be established determined by your riding level

Lets finish not with an inspection sheet but with some guidance.

Maintenance Functions

You have to identify the tooling systems and get them. If your ride is metric or standard is a great place to start.
socket set, allen wrenches, cleaning bucket, compressed air source or good pump. air inflation pressure gauge, tube air valve remover, zip ties

Doing a video on daily maintenance could be an option but we are anti google and will never youtube, Rumble might be in the future, we have many beautiful videos of rides on the beach in NSB and the keys

Starting to get an idea about a belt system. 3D printing the gears might just be an option, this will take a little research

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Building out the .US Domain Ecosystem

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Understanding corrosion and dis-similar metals

Do you ever wonder why assembles don’t join different types of metal in fabrication? One primary reason is corrosion, understanding this metal degradation is important, especially in assembles under motion like aircraft. Your Boat, you want it to stay pretty for a long time, better invest in WD40 !

Electrochemical potential (science)

When you join different types of metals, corrosion can occur due to a process called galvanic corrosion. Here’s a simple explanation:

  1. Different Metals: Metals like aluminum, copper, and steel have different properties, including how easily they give up electrons. This is known as their “electrochemical potential.”
  2. Electrochemical Potential: Metals with a high electrochemical potential, like aluminum, tend to lose electrons more easily, while metals with a low electrochemical potential, like copper, do not.
  3. Electrolyte Presence: When two dissimilar metals are joined together and exposed to an electrolyte (like water, especially if it contains salts or other chemicals), a galvanic cell is formed.
  4. Galvanic Cell: In this cell, the metal with higher electrochemical potential (anode) starts losing electrons to the metal with lower electrochemical potential (cathode).
  5. Corrosion: The metal that loses electrons (the anode) begins to corrode. This happens because the metal atoms are converted into ions, which dissolve into the electrolyte, causing the metal to deteriorate.
  6. Example: Imagine a steel screw (high potential) in a copper pipe (low potential). If water acts as an electrolyte, the steel screw will start to corrode as it loses electrons to the copper pipe.

By understanding this process, you can take measures to prevent corrosion, such as using the same type of metal, applying protective coatings, or placing a barrier between different metals.

There are several types of corrosion that affects metal

Here are some of the most common types:

  1. Uniform Corrosion: This is the most common type of corrosion, where the metal surface corrodes at a uniform rate. It usually results in a relatively uniform thinning of the metal.
  2. Galvanic Corrosion: This occurs when two dissimilar metals are in electrical contact in the presence of an electrolyte. The more reactive metal (anode) corrodes faster than it would alone, while the less reactive metal (cathode) corrodes slower.
  3. Pitting Corrosion: This type involves the formation of small pits or holes on the metal surface. It’s highly localized and can lead to failure even if the rest of the metal appears unaffected.
  4. Crevice Corrosion: Occurs in confined spaces where the access of the working fluid (e.g., water) is limited, such as under gaskets, washers, or bolt heads. It is similar to pitting but occurs in crevices.
  5. Intergranular Corrosion: This happens along the grain boundaries of a metal. It can be particularly severe in metals that have been improperly heat-treated or welded.
  6. Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC): This occurs when a metal is subjected to tensile stress and a corrosive environment simultaneously. It often leads to sudden and unexpected failure of the metal.
  7. Erosion Corrosion: This is caused by the combined effects of corrosion and mechanical wear. It’s common in pipelines and equipment where high-velocity fluids cause physical wear on the metal.
  8. Filiform Corrosion: This occurs under painted or coated surfaces and appears as thread-like filaments of corrosion spreading from small defects in the coating.
  9. Microbial Corrosion: This type of corrosion is influenced by the presence of microorganisms, such as bacteria, fungi, or algae. It can occur in various environments, including soils, water, and oils.
  10. Dealloying: This type involves the selective corrosion of one element from an alloy, such as the leaching of zinc from brass, leaving behind a porous and weakened structure.

Understanding the different types of corrosion can help in choosing the right materials and protective measures to prevent or mitigate damage.

Living in Florida

Living in Florida, particularly in coastal regions, adds additional elements to the corrosion problem due to the unique environmental conditions. Here are some factors that exacerbate corrosion in such areas:

  1. High Humidity: Florida’s humid climate increases the likelihood of moisture settling on metal surfaces, which accelerates corrosion processes.
  2. Salt Air: Coastal areas are exposed to salt-laden air. Salt acts as an electrolyte, promoting galvanic corrosion and other types of corrosion more aggressively than freshwater.
  3. Temperature Fluctuations: Frequent temperature changes can cause condensation, creating a moist environment that is conducive to corrosion.
  4. Frequent Rainfall: Florida’s regular rainfall, including heavy storms, can wash away protective coatings and increase metal exposure to water and oxygen, accelerating rust and other forms of corrosion.
  5. UV Exposure: Prolonged exposure to intense sunlight can degrade protective coatings and paints, leaving the underlying metal vulnerable to corrosion.
  6. Wind-Driven Sand and Salt: Coastal winds can carry abrasive particles and salt, physically eroding protective coatings and exposing fresh metal surfaces to corrosive elements.

Preventive Measures

To mitigate these factors, consider the following preventive measures:

  1. Use Corrosion-Resistant Materials: Choose materials that are resistant to corrosion, such as stainless steel, aluminum, or specially treated metals designed for marine environments.
  2. Protective Coatings: Apply high-quality, UV-resistant paints and coatings to metal surfaces to create a barrier against moisture and salt.
  3. Regular Maintenance: Inspect and maintain metal structures regularly. Clean off salt deposits and apply fresh coatings as needed.
  4. Cathodic Protection: Use cathodic protection techniques, such as sacrificial anodes, to protect more important metal structures from corrosion.
  5. Environmental Barriers: Where possible, install barriers or shelters to protect metal components from direct exposure to saltwater spray and wind-driven sand.
  6. Proper Drainage: Ensure proper drainage to prevent water from pooling on or around metal structures.
  7. Desiccants and Dehumidifiers: In enclosed spaces, use desiccants or dehumidifiers to control humidity levels.

By understanding and addressing these additional elements, you can better protect metal structures and components from the accelerated corrosion common in Florida’s coastal regions.

Here’s an illustration of dissimilar metal corrosion:

  • Metal A (Anode): Represented by the silver rectangle (e.g., aluminum). This metal corrodes due to electron loss.
  • Metal B (Cathode): Represented by the gold rectangle (e.g., copper). This metal remains relatively unaffected.
  • Corrosion: Indicated by the red circle on Metal A, showing where it corrodes.
  • Electrolyte: The blue line represents an electrolyte (e.g., saltwater) facilitating the corrosion process.

This visual demonstrates how the presence of an electrolyte and the difference in electrochemical potential between two metals lead to corrosion of the more reactive metal (anode).

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Tools worth fixing

Not all tools are worth putting the time and expense to repair. These days with all the Crap coming out of china the strategy is to just trash the tool and buy another.

Some times tools are worth fixing. As a fixit website it’s our motive to show the good, the bad, and the ulgy.

lets explore an example.
Out categories are growing but we like the 15 minute fix the best. To show how to bring an item back into service quickly is a great achievement. Sometimes it’s just a firmware update or software setting. Sometimes it’s just an adjustment. Putting this information out in one location is our plan.

Here is a perfect example:
Tools are important and quality brands are the best, it shows professionalism when you have quality and take care of them.
This is a ratchet set. 3/8 and 1/4 in Mac tools. I love the brand, having been a professional mechanic these are premium

Problem: Mac tools gives lifetime warranty but only to registered tools or receipt. At this point it’s a cost for parts and time. Luckly we found a supplier and the cost was fair

Ok parts on order, repair to come

Read our post on corrosion to help maintain your tools
https://fixitfl.us/understanding-corrosion-and-dis-similar-metals/

Sometimes it’s not easy to find parts

The initial attempt was a failure, well kinda. Two ratchets, Two repair kits, Two wrong parts!
If there was a win it was with the 3/8 ratchet. After disassembly and lubrication it was returned to service. On the parts issue, the ratchets have a part number, the parts ordered for the ratchet part number but the received parts were wrong.
It turns out there are fine tooth and regular. Mine are regular spaced teeth and the new parts were fine. The parts kits were all together wrong, the part quantity and pieces different.

The mission will continue

My next attempt will be to find a MAC truck and see if a deal can be made on a parts kit. One thing to consider is there is a breaking point on costs, the tool really doesn’t have a lot of value, so many replacements available used it’s not worth more than 10 bucks for parts and i’m into this 5 now.

at this point it’s more about trying to revive a great tool and not just disposing it. Plus the benefit of having this post illustrate the internals of this specific tools

(right click and open in new tab for better view)

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Air Drone loses power, worth fixing?

Enjoying flying drones is a fun hobby and advances in the development has provided an oppertunity
for people to generate income and even run profitable businesses. Like alot of cheap & quick business opportunists alot of startups happened and with that drone manufactures started creating some good quality, dependable, with high resolution camera drones. Unfortunately incedents happen and drones crash.

I have a particular unit that was acquired cheaply for the purpose of training. This drone configuration has 6 motors and is quite stable, but on this day it decided to stop the motors for about 5 seconds at a 30 foot hover. Why i dont know but the result was pretty bad.
If you have ever looked at retail replacement parts for specific manufactured parts you soon realize where they make alot of their revinue. Of course being a fixer we just put it in a box and waited for a solution, which happened aquiring a used uncrashed unit minus assessories for 200 bucks. This was the only result that would have brought this drone back to like, The unit sells for aroun 2000 with a camera, if i were to retail parts they would have been over 500 bucks. Hopefully there are enough to get back in the air

Because this is a complete rebuild this will be multiple segments to post. Firstly I had to aquire some landing gear parts, this unit has reteactable gear, a very cool feature but the servos are expensive. The option was to get used cases as replacement parts at 10 each. Following will be pix of the rebuild

Right click images and open in new tab for detail view

You can see there are some small parts, the gear uses hooks on a carrier, the hooks are broken. The pix are for details on assembly, there is a bearing buildup on the end

More to come as parts arrive

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Cheep Cameras

I get a kick fixing broken stuff, sometimes I expect an item that’s a dollar to be broken, so at least I get a lesson on dis-assembly. If it’s already broken who gives a shit right, but if I can fix it I have the knowledge and experience working on the item

Digital Cameras–portable

These things are all over the place anymore and I use them for doing inventory building. As long as they have a high density ccd, like 8meg pixel they work great.

This is an experience on 2 I have found lately, one appeared good, clean and worked, had a 8gig memory card but no charger. It was 1 dollar and had a nice case, problem was it didn’t have a charger and I didn’t have a cable for nikon. I had to put an additional 8 bucks into it to charge the battery, which worked
Here is where the deal went south. The camera worked fine but it wouldn’t focus properly.
after a couple minutes in the settings it got worked out, there is a close up setting. I took these of camera 2 with camera 1. Very acceptable, 9 bucks

Next was a lumix FS 3. This was 3 bucks but was in a bag of goodies. A interface cable, charger, and an additional AA Battery charger for NiCD & NiMH.
This camera had an error on power up. It said please turn the camera off then on again. This appeared about 3 seconds after start up. It displayed the images on the installed sd card, we won’t go into some of the pix I find on these cameras, I just delete them but oh boy.
Doing some research shows the error is from the lense not coming out on picture mode power up. Errors can becaused from dropping the camera or getting it wet. This one just had the lense stuck. You can see tool marks on the lense, I dont know if thats the result from probing with a xacto knife trying to extend it but doesnt matter, the lense came loose and the error was gone. This is a nice unit and limux is my favorite brand, I use the GH5 for my video work. Here are some images from this unit Cam2 of Cam1

All in all both of these units have 8 meg pix sensors, my intention as noted is to use them for inventory purposes. I setup small business inventories using older macs running a photo based inventory system. With these cameras a pretty good photo based inventory system can be setup for under 50 bucks depending on the mac. I am looking into a simular setup using the raspberry pi but the application I use now is for mac only. It runs for about 15 bucks, I didn’t mention that. Of course we only work with registered apps on all our programs, be it desktop or internet.

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Power Strip analysis

Today I got a rack mount strip with some impressive text on the cover. Line conditioner.
ok so I paid 2 bucks, I figured the heavy ducy courd could be used on another tool repair if all else

So of course i have to look inside to see what design was used for conditioning, anyway, that’s not whats inside. Like most its a bank of outlets, connected to a fuse breaker, then a power button.

It works, it’s in great condition and it rack mounts so heck, but what about the sucker that paid a premium for conditioned power, Not sure about that

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ELEMENT 32IN MONITOR EM3FPAC32BC BLACK SCREEN, HAS AUDIO, no menu

Fixing black screen 32in element

Monitor turns on but there is no image on the screen at all. Backlight comes on for a few seconds and then goes out, monitor goes to sleep.

Ok so I found a post searching the problem that said to remove a couple capacitors because they were shorting out. This person used a thermal imager to find the problem. SMD capacitor CD4 is shorted. Then another CD5 on the back side

I removed the one above the heat sink (CD4) and still didn’t work. Removing the second one on the back side brought it back to life. Yes, my black Friday deal was saved from the scrap heap.

It’s easy to remove the back cover, First remove the stand then start along the bottom unsnapping. Then rotate the lower cover up and lay it flat
You have to remove 4 screws on the board to get to the backside but you don’t have to remove any wires

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