The normal removal is the transformer, lots of crafty guys use them as spot welders, but after i removed the transformer I noticed the good quality of the fan. So I removed it to explore uses and to see if it was still in working order.
It caught me off guard for all the wires but after staring at the label the smog cleared and I was able to make some sense of it
I’m not trained in electronics but modern manufactures normally give the specs, its just a matter of comprehending them. I almost posted a request for info but I figured I would just smoke test it, what the heck.
I was lost because the cap and the electric sign next to it but its clear you need a positive and neutral to spin it. Then the capacitor rating is listed, that takes care of the yellow and red. You have a choice of hi or low, that’s black and white so the other blue would be neutral.
I wired it up without a cap to see if i was correct. The fan works great you just have to spin it to get it to motor up, hense the cap. I will find a rated cap before i install this really nice unit somewhere. Living in Florida just about everything needs a secondary fan.
For anyone who doesn’t understand the Cap, capacitor, These things are in just about any electric motor, they store a charge then release it to kick off the motor spin. There are so many different types, normally you’ll have start, run, run&start. You need to read up on these because they will make you dead.
wired high
wired low speed
I found this picture of an assebbly with cap, an idea of what the cap looks like
These are great tools , like the sawzall, they have alot of utility. I have a battery one and its great but I like to have electric tools because the batteries dont go dead. I took a chance on this, 1 dollar, the seller said it worked, or ran or something like that. If you plug it in it runs but it didn’t oscillate. It took a couple minutes to realize the head doesn’t come apart, it will but it wont go back together if you know what I mean.
Research on the broken head was 50 bucks.
Internal visual was actually pretty clean.
the head has a fork that runs off a bearing that rotates off center. This moves a fork back and forth.
This unit the fork component broke off one leg, the single part is not available which should cost 5-10 bucks but not an option
Now the unit gets an id number, a shelf location and posted on our volusia market website for 10 bucks
This way if someone has the same tool that has worn motor or bat circuit board we can help them out
One thing about tradesmen sentimentality runs deep. You will find a lot of old pros have tools from the very beginning. this is an example of something that kills good quality tools early in their useful term
I realize now a days things are just disposable, or its not worth fixing but i like to make examples o how this doesn’t have to be
Just this week i ran across a deal where there were 2 4in angle grinders for 30 bucks. now that’s a great price when the tools are a good brand, then again brand quality can be suspect also these days.
Here is my fixit for the day. I have a Milwaukee 4in grinder I have had over 20 years and it still kicks butt but the electrical cord broke down You see it all the time, the casing degrades and falls apart, the general repair is electrical tape till the complete cord is all tape. problem is the shielding on the wire is usually degraded also and the two wires short
Being the kinda guy that cuts cords I always have a spare, this one coming off a relatively new shop vac, a brown model that smoked it’s self out before 1 year, but the cord was nice, long and clean. I just couldn’t justify repairing the vac, it was obvious the china factory quality control was lacking.
This china manufactured crap shop tools is going to turn around, tradesmen don’t buy garbage tools and the china manufacturing of stolen intellectual property is coming to an end.
Tools are an investment
Wires are not to hard to figure out. Black and White here. Black being hot in most instances. If they are different probe the wires to the plug. You should know the two terminals are the larger being the neutral.
If you don’t know this now would be a good time to look up wiring an electrical outlet in your home.
I have been wanting to try these connectors, they have a solder ring that melts the two wires together
My first attempt thinking a lighter might work kinda failed, I think i set the shrink casing on fire. I continued and used a hot air gun, worked, and the connector was small so not to take up alot of room on reassembly. all in all about 15 minutes and i have a brand new cord
Ok you have a broken item. In your mind you go through the operation and the processes needed for this item to function. These days almost all components have electronics and because these are difficult at times to troubleshoot the first order is to replace them until the item is fixed.
Unfortunately during your research if your reading internet posts in general the results skip over the very basic steps of troubleshooting. Do the mechanical connections and a very good visual inspection. In my professional routine I would do a lot of grabbing, pulling and twisting. Look for obvious visual clues.
Example: I Love Diesel Engines and especially the 5.9 Cummins in my truck. On my morning routine I fired it up, but was left with no acceleration. Dead pedal is a common reference term. The truck runs, goes into drive but won’t increase RPM when depressing the accelerator
This is where the lesson comes in. Researching at the beginning referred to the Throttle Position Sensor TPS. Why, because it’s electronic and a simple change out. Before purchasing this component (80 bucks) I went through my memory and theory of my 5.9’s ability to operate without any electronics, say after china detonates an EMP, or for folks like me who believe 9-11 was an inside job, the NWO does it and eliminates electronic capabilities. (I couldn’t resist)
The Point: Alot of online pro’s give bad advise because thety are not there to do a visual inspection. The information you give can’t be detailed enough to get to the right conclusion.
My truck can run without a TPS, it’s purpose is to present information for computer decisions but not to control the fuel distributer. The system is mechnical. Check the mechnical links!
Visual inspecting reveled the rod the fuel control link had the connecting end fail and fall off.
You would think with all the outcry’s of (fake) Man Made global weather change the people would stop and evaluate the junk they purchase from the local China distribution point and invest in quality tools.
One of our company divisions is rebuild and recondition items before they become Landfill. Funny a lot of this volume of garbage is actually China made garbage designed to look like a quality item but actually made for short duration use and to the garbage can. Just look on trash day what is in the bin
How many vacuum cleaners or house hold items.
When will people focus on their own contributions to this glutton of garbage.
Most transformers last along time and are not the cause of a device failure. Collecting these requires the ability to identify input and output values. These are good examples, easy to read and determining their future use. primary considerations, normally will be 120v/60Hz input but output varies alot. ac or dc and voltage are listed, both of these are a/c
Lets say you purchased a set of LED lights that are addressable so you can make some cool affects, gut you realize the app to control the strip is CCP and links to the Communist Party servers and they want to see what your up to. Of course 40% of Americans are communist so they’ll just download the app and give all their info to their future leaders. Some of us just don’t want anyone watching what we are doing, so what’s the fix.
Cut the F’en cable and wire it up with a esp32 controller, but wait there’s a hitch. The wire colors don’t follow any sort of standard so you better pin them out. Here is the pin-out from these dirt cheap Lenovo Smart LED strips.
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